Where are the Zionists in Tel Aviv?

September 5, 2007

Where are all of the Zionists in Tel Aviv?

Nearly all of the people that I have met in Tel Aviv ask me why I am in Israel. I tell them I am just a tourist but I’d like to live here for a while, work here and see what happens. This is all summed up in an “I’d like to make Aliya” phrase. Nearly everyone responds with a “Why would you want to do that when you are from the country with the most opportunity in the world? You have everything.”

Jerusalem is architecturally and geographically elegant, tense with the Arabs and Jews, spiritual, and intense with intellect. Tel Aviv buildings are functionally obsolete, and the culture is decidedly American-like with the chase for fun and money. I had a great debate the other night with a woman who considered herself a world citizen and subscribed to the belief that religion has caused most of the tragedies in the world. She, along with many people from this secular city of Tel Aviv, does not consider herself a Zionist. However, she does feel that the Jews have no where else that they could live peaceful lives. She does not consider herself religiously Jewish but feels that the world would and would ultimately persecute her. She also doesn’t care about any of the traditions such as fasting on Yom Kippur, and having a Passover sedar. Even though 99% of this city is technically Jewish, few do anything more than go home on an occasional Friday evening to have dinner with their parents. The younger ones go out to meet friends in the late nightlife scene after the dinner. Cynicism and resignation seem pervasive. The media here (Free media for all of you from non-western countries) shows a negative image of corruption, governmental, and military screw-ups being the norm. People generally don’t feel they can make changes anymore. My impression is that they stay because they have family here and this is the culture they know. Many have tried living abroad and most have traveled abroad for an extended time.

Life is definitely harder than in the USA. Prices for almost everything are higher. Wages are significantly lower. Taxes are significantly higher. Plus, there is the always-looming danger of war and terrorism. This is what they think. I generally explain that I love and have always supported Israel and have been a victim of the brain-washing on four different bus tours with other Americans where they show us this beautiful land and the good things that are going on here. Today, while trying to study my Hebrew over lunch at a sandwich shop, I told the guy at the next table that, “Yes, if money is the main priority, then Israel is not the best place to be”. The USA has a much higher standard of living and an easier life. “Why, then,” they ask, “Do you come to this small country when we would love to live in the USA? You must be religious.” My answer keeps getting tested with each of these conversations. Is it just the exotic feeling of being in a foreign country on the Mediterranean? Will that attraction become blurred when I get a good command for the language?

I am not religious in my opinion. So, why am I here? My answer is that I love Israel. I love a place where different peoples from different cultures come together in a short period of time to build a country in a dangerous neighborhood. I love being around people from Persia, Yemen, Iraq, Morocco, Ethiopia, Paris, London, Russia, Ukraine, Argentina, Brazil, and New York. All of these people, I thought, had come together with a mission to create together a great nation that would give refuge to the Jews and would treat all others in its borders with respect and equal rights. We are in a post-Zionist era. The Russians have already come. There are still some Ethiopians that are going to come. However, the large influxes are over. People have to go into the military service and there is a lack of patriotism here. You can see soldiers with facial piercings, long hair, scraggly beards, and a very casual manner in relating to each other and to civilians. Perhaps they are just fed up with the religious right having their way and having the settlers still in the West Bank. I don’t know. I do know that when the settlers are removed from the West Bank, there will be more violence against Israel. We’re seeing it in Gaza, we saw it when Israel pulled out of Ramallah, and we’ll see it again. It’s something that Israel will just have to endure.

So, how can I hold onto my idealism when Israelis don’t have it? Perhaps I can make a big difference here. When I say that it’s great to be somewhere where the majority is Jewish, the people of Tel Aviv don’t care. They seem to want to have an easier life, even if it’s without Judaism. Or, at least they would prefer to be the minority and have a higher standard of living. I often wonder why the enemies of Israel don’t just declare peace, support Israel, and watch the different peoples inside tear each other apart in a civil war.

Yet, I feel at home here. The people are open, sincere, and friendly. There does not seem to be a hierarchy. You offer the serviceman a drink when he comes to your house. The waiter talks to you like you are a friend, without an air. Some are too tough but I think that is their way of protecting themselves. It rarely gets under my skin. I am respectful but calmly stand my ground when needed. There is a Mediterranean passion here that would get pushed aside by manners and politeness in my home culture. It’s open and you know exactly where you stand. You can talk to anyone and people are quick to open their homes to you.

It’s tough at times but I love it. I want to find work here and see what happens. I’m taking it slowly. We’ll see. I ask myself, “Am I right to want to be here?” I answer with a quote from George Carlin: “ I think I am. Therefore, I am. I think.”

Randy